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BERKELEY T60 BUILD
  1. BERKELEY T60 BUILD BLOG Post No: 2


    BERKELEY T60 BUILD BLOG
    by Neil Foreman
    of Car Builder Solutions

    To see Post no:1 scroll right to the bottom of this post
    Post No: 2 - What do we have here?
    my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk

    Many Berkeleys have been rebuilt over the years with Mini engines which, in my opinion, are just too big for this pretty little car. They invariably sit too high and usually have an ugly bonnet bulge. However, the previous owner of my car had already made a start on the project and had chosen Honda's, water-cooled CX500 'V'-Twin engine. It's 1982 vintage but still a relatively modern replacement for the original 328cc Excelsior two-stroke twin. It's been mounted in a Mini subframe and a plan devised for the Honda's shaft drive to deliver the power to the single rear wheel. It had all been roughly assembled to prove the principles but never driven. I'm generally happy with the basic concept - some things are pretty much how I would have done them but for some others, I would have taken a different path. 

    I've cleared a comfortable working space (gotta have comfort these days) and installed some amazing new flat panel LED lights in the ceiling (gotta have light too). I had my eyes lasered a few years ago so I can still see and read the smallest detail - but only if I have enough light!! And I've treated myself to an Electro-hydraulic motorcycle lift  - it's perfect for this project. The engine's sitting in the subframe and, at the moment, the body is still perched, partly on a pallet and a couple of axle stands.



    So, what have we got here? Berkeley bodies were originally an assembly of three or four separate glassfibre panels, bolted and riveted together with folded aluminium panels for inner sills, bulkheads, inner wings and cross-members. It was all pretty lightweight and quite fragile but corrosion eventually led to replacement and modification. The previous owner of GSV 610 had already made a pretty good job of bonding all the panels together and has reinforced critical areas with steel tubes and frames.

    I've stripped a few parts from the engine but you can still see how nicely it sits in the modified subframe. It'll need no change to the car's original ride height nor any bulges in the bonnet. The original Mini drum brakes and rubber cone suspension are still there, augmented by a couple of small Vespa dampers and the drive shafts are, of course, gone - leaving just the stub axles in the hubs. The front wheel arches have been 'bulged' - though not excessively, to accommodate the wider track of the Mini front geometry. At first I wasn't sure, preferring the flat-sided original but it's kinda growing on me, adding just a tad of 'muscle' to the Berkeley's petite prettiness.

    The pedal box is from a 2CV. It's small, light and neat and has a cable clutch and tandem master cylinder with an integral reservoir. The aluminium bulkhead and wheel arch panels look original but most of the original instrument holes and switch holes in the dashboard have been re-glassed in. Two angled, steel plates have been bonded and riveted along the length of the floorpan, linking the front bulkhead to the rear wheel well. There's a folded channel, 'cap' (not shown) for the top but the bottom is open - for exhaust, brake and fuel line, maybe? There are steel tubes glassed into the 'A' posts with a welded cross-tube under the dash. The hole below the clutch pedal is for the prop-shaft, which runs through pillow block bearings, inside the car, alongside the 'tunnel' - not in it.

    ......and here's the rear wheel well - reinforced and much stronger than the original moulding. There's a glassed-in, steel cross-member and heavy steel mounting plate alongside the end of the 'tunnel' with holes for mounting a bearing carrier for the propshaft. You can see a specially made aluminium fuel tank on the right.

    Here, I'm laying on the floor beneath the car looking up into the wheel well. You can see the red propshaft bearing carrier on the left and the swinging arm mounts on either side of it. Shock mounts are in the middle of the picture. It all looks solid and strong without being too agricultural.


     
    I must admit to knowing very little about the Honda CX500. The Japanese bike scene hadn't really kicked-off when I abandoned two wheels for four in about 1973 but this engine seems an inspired choice for a Berkeley. With 4 valves per cylinder, 10:1 compression ratio, 9750 rpm redline and 50 horsepower it's a marked improvement over the original 328cc, two stroke twin. It's compact, has an integral 5 speed gearbox with shaft drive and is relatively simple technology that my aging noddle can easily understand.. The previous owner told me that it came from a bike with only 30,000 miles on the clock but needed a new head gasket. It was given a top end overhaul and ran like a dream. A little internet research has revealed it to be rugged and reliable so I think I'll run with it.
     

    I remain to be convinced, however, about the Mini subframe choice. A tubular spaceframe would be my instinctive first choice but, OK, I can see the attraction. Proven design of about the same era, cheap, easily available parts and it seems to fit very nicely beneath the Berkeley's bonnet and wheel arches. What is worrying me more is the mounting method of the subframe to the GRP body.
    There are six mounting points for the subframe to the body. Two holes at the front corners of the subframe, for bolting to bonded-in brackets either side of the front grille opening, two drop-down steel pillars that are welded onto steel plates, glassed-into the underside of each wing and bolted to the subframe turrets each side.
     
     
    Front, left hand subframe to body mounting. 
     
     
    Here I'm looking up inside the right hand wheel arch at the turret mount, strongly glassed-onto the inside, top of the wing.
     

    ....... and two holes in the rearward arms of the subframe (at the very bottom of this picture), that bolt through a steel plate which is glassed into the floor pan at the bottom of the front bulkhead. I get it that these six fixing points are adequate to fix the body to the subframe but the centre of gravity of the engine is way forward of the turrets and I don't believe that the the forward fixings are up to taking their share of torque movements under hard acceleration, braking and cornering. Maybe I'm being a little anal about it. Truth is, I won't be racing or even thrashing around on the road so it could all be OK as it is. More thought required.

    You can see here the Fiat Cinquecento steering rack mounted to a steel plate welded to the subframe. It looks suitable for the job although the track rods seem a little long. Steering geometry should be close enough for the limited suspension travel but I'll check it anyway.
     

    I've given it all a wash down with 'gun-wash' thinners and a stiff brush but eight or so years of grime, corrosion and surface rust won't disappear that easily. The white spots on the black engine parts are actually corrosion breaking through from beneath the paint so I reckon a bead-blast is in order.
     

     

     

     

     

     

    This is the gear selector mod that converts it to a cable change with a sequential lever somewhere along the tunnel.
     

     

     

     

    I've always maintained that the seats must be the starting point  when you're designing and building a car and installing column and pedals. So here are the two that I sorted before I moth-balled the project several years ago. GRP buckets once destined for a Vincent MPH, trimmed in black Connolly leather. Nice.
     
     
    ....and this is a Quaife reverse gearbox with an engine-driven input flange and an output flange that reverses propshaft direction with a push or pull of the black lever. It's big, bulky and heavy and is designed to handle bike engines with up to three times the power of my Honda CX. It'll have to fit somewhere in the drivetrain. Maybe there's something smaller available these days. Well, at least I'll have five reverse gears to play with.
     
     
    .....and a couple of chrome Berkeley badges.
     
     
     
     The last time I did this was 1989-  but that's another story........
     
     
    OK - let's get on with it.
    2 

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  2. NOV
    15
     

    BERKELEY T60 BUILD BLOG Post No:1

     
     
    BERKELEY T60 BUILD BLOG
    by
    Neil Foreman
    of

    CAR BUILDER SOLUTIONS

    Post No: 1 - A Look Back
    my email: neil@cbsonline.co.uk

     

    This must have been the winter of 1970 / 1971 around the time of UK decimalisation. Sweet sixteen, in the snow outside my parent's house in Maidstone, wearing my first leather jacket (still got it) and Dad's old RAF boots. My first ever car was this 1960 Berkeley T60. In those days you could drive a 3-wheeler on a bike license at age 16 and even (kind-of) get away with driving it alone as a learner by sticking a kitchen stool on the passenger seat so you couldn't take a passenger. (We had some fold-up kitchen stools at the time...wink, wink).

    The range of Berkeley cars was a collaboration between designer Lawrie Bond and Berkeley Coachworks who were one of the largest manufacturers of caravans in Europe. It was an ideal project for Berkeley, who had developed considerable skills in the use of Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP), and were looking for something to fill the gaps in the seasonal caravan market. What they wanted to build  was "a car good enough to win World 750cc races... but cheap, safe, easily repairable and pretty'. The collaboration lasted only four years between 1956 and 1960 during which time around 4100 cars were made, of which 1600 were T60's

    When I was sixteen, in 1970, there were still quite a few around - two of my friends had one. I can clearly remember first seeing this one at a petrol station on my way home from work and asking the owner if he wanted to sell it. He did - and £100 soon changed hands. Now, for an apprentice earning around £6 a week, £100 was a lot of wedge, but I was starting to earn a few quid with my first working band, 'HYDE' so I guess I must have sold something and somehow manage to scrape it up.
    Most T60's - mine included, had an Excelsior, 328cc, two-stroke twin engine, a four speed box with reverse and an electric starter. Some had the 500cc triple engine and the four-wheeled B95 version had a 700cc Royal Enfield twin engine. The electric starter was very cool compared to the starting procedure of Villiers-engined Bond 3 wheelers. Their uncool owners had to open the bonnet, swing a leg inside and kick-start the engine. !!!

    The bottom picture below shows the sporty dash and standard wood-rim steering wheel. There's also my first real bike - an AJS 250 and my little Brother's 'Chopper' in front.

    The offside headlamp cover is missing in the first picture because I'd just collected the car from 'Mech-Spray' in Rochester who had repaired the offside front wing after I pulled out of Maidstone's 'Square Hill' junction, without looking, into the path of a Transit. Duhhh! The first and last time I ever did that!! I was just a few months into my apprenticeship and knew little about glassfibre but that's how it was - we all learned very fast - a year later I'd have done it all myself. I can also recall struggling to get the car through an MoT because of worn king-pin bushes. With limited funds and knowledge, the best I could do at the time was to take-up the wear with some brass shim-stock. A few months later I'd have had the skills to turn-up some new bushes in the Training School's machine shop and replace them properly. The single, trailing shoe, handbrake on the rear wheel was also an MoT challenge but my experience with bikes and some help from my Dad soon had it converted to  'Leading Shoe'.
    Apart from maintenance and bolting the heavy Chrome Jaguar to the bonnet, I never really did much to it. I had a few short months of fun, but as soon as I passed the Car Driving Test on my 17th Birthday, it was sold to buy a Thames 15cwt van to lug around my band gear.

    Roll on over forty years and a friend told me that he had a Berkeley T60 unfinished project for sale. It was all in pieces but he had mounted a Honda CX500 engine in a modified Mini front subframe and conceived a mounting plan for the body, drive shafts, prop shaft and rear wheel. Nostalgia got the better of me and once again, I was the owner of a Berkeley T60. Soon after the purchase, however, work priorities changed and the project was stored for several years. But not before I bought and commissioned the trimming of a pair of very appropriate little bucket seats in sumptuous black connolly leather.

    Buried beneath a pile of P4 parts and stored furniture is the body shell.

    ..... and here's the front subframe and engine - trapped amidst all sorts of stored stuff.

    I'd better get digging then.
  3.  

How to trim plastic lamp mounts at an angle
Not all rear panels have vertical surfaces to mount your rear lamps. Our moulded lamp housings offer an easy way to mount your lamps vertically on a sloping rear panel. Here's how to trim them.

1. First make a cardboard template. Draw around the lamp with a magic marker.

4. Mark the cutting line on the moulding - we've used a Tippex pen here.

2. Cut the hole with a sharp knife. Depending on the angle of the sloping rear panel you may have to extend the cut hole a little to an 'Elipse' shape. Trial and error is the best way here - just trim a little at a time...... 5.Trim carefully to the line with snips or strong scissors. Trim in stages, testing the angle against your panel every time. You can always trim a little more off - but you can't put it back on. For final finishing you can level the cut edge by rubbing it on a sheet of 60 grit abrasive paper glued to a piece of flat ply or MDF.

3. ... until the housing sits nicely in the hole at the required angle.

6.Glue a strip of rubber 'U' channel around the edge and you're ready to mount it to your panel..
Feb Newsletter

We have some great deals for you in this update. If you have been considering a headlight upgrade to your vehicle or are at that stage of your build this might just be the news you need.
These prices will never be repeated and are only available in limited numbers, if you want a set of these lights then don't delay the few that we have won't be around for long.  These lights are in stock and could be fitted on your car by this time next week.  It is Valentines after all, show a little love to your car.  
All prices will return to normal after the weekend or once the limited stock has gone.

 
ALL IN ONE CHROME

Normally £240+VAT a pair, we have just a few sets of these available at this once only price of £199+. These lamps are a combined Main-Dip-Side-DRL-Indicator and look awesome on any vehicle. If chrome is not your bag then just paint them to match you car. Supplied complete with headlamp bulbs. You may need to add resistors to the indicator circuit depending on your flasher relay. 

Discount code: AL1C199
7" COMPLETE HEADLAMPS

Available in polished Stainless Steel or Black Coated, these lovely quality headlights won't be available again at this crazy price. 
Normally £104 each this weekend they are £75. Only 3 pairs of each available at this price so be quick. These lamps are IVA compliant and cover your Side, Dip and Main Beam. They are supplied with a H4 Main and Dip bulb and Sidelight Bulb.
Discount Code
Black: W775
Discount Code Stainless: W675
 
Small Steering Wheel
I picked up this tiny steering rack last week, I really wanted to get a proper steering setup on my sons Cobra Tot Rod.  This should do the trick. I'm now  looking for a small steering wheel, a ten inch wood rim would be perfect.  If you have one or know where I can get one please let me know. 
Unfortunately this year two of our regular Kit Car shows (Detling and Newark) have been cancelled, leaving us with only three shows on the calendar.  Closer to the time we will be offering show collection for online orders so you can save on delivery cost if you are planning to visit the shows. 
We are now proud to announce that we will soon be stocking a range of Hella lighting products.  These fantastic quality lights are respected all around the world and we have carefully selected a range of products that we think you will all like.  One product that we are sure will be popular is the 90mm Bi-Halogen projector lamp. Dip and Main Headlamps in just one 90mm lamp unit. Keep an eye on the website in the next couple of weeks for updates. 


POR 15
We are also now a stockist of Por15 Rust converters and Protectors. 
POR-15 works because it chemically bonds to rusted metal and forms a rock-hard, non-porous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It keeps moisture away from metal with a coating that is strengthened by continued exposure to moisture.  We also stock their renowned Fuel Tank Sealer and all preparation products.

Feedback & Updates

We've had some great feedback on the new site, so thank you for your comments and recommendations. Some of your requests have been implemented, and some will be added for future updates.

Another 500+ 360 images have been added so we're getting closer to a complete set. We hope the shutdown of www.cbsonline.co.uk was painless for all our customers and the new www.carbuildersolutions.com is working well for everybody.

A recent improvement to the way the products are displayed can be found using the View as 'List' option. It means you can get a snap shot of the product descriptions all in one list. Using the other display options you can view 200 products in one list and sort by various different parameters.

Other updates include a catalogue request form, and a direct link to the downloadable PDF.

Website launch

Its taken a few months now, and there's been a number of late nights. But we're now ready to show off all our hard work. We hope you like it. As with all online content there could well be some teething problems. Although we have tested it to destruction there are sure to be bits we have missed, So if you spot a missing image or a link that doesnt work please drop us a quick email to info@carbuildersolutions.com.

The 360 degree images should help you to see if 'it will fit' and we are adding more descriptive content every day. The checkout procedure is now much simpler as you don't have to leave our site. Sagepay and Paypal are now both securly integrated to our site. 

You will now have the option of Royal Mail postage for lower weight and value orders, although you will of course still be able to select our great value next day delivery service via Interlink.